After having said our ‘see you tomorrows’ to our turquoise friends, we drove to Port Ellen to get a cup of tea at the Port Ellen hotel bar, who had opened their gardens for the lovely afternoon. The hotel was purchased by LVMH in 2022 and will be completely overhauled in 2024, after Feis Ile. Rumour has it, the rooms will be whisky themed, heavily influenced by the Ardbeg colours and themes. We expect – with no particular reason – the worst; dinosaurs, kelpies, smoke, clowns, etc… Time will tell.

A quick stop at the Port Ellen coop for our dinner that evening, we decided to stop for a replenishment for Cliopetra as well. Although Islay is not that large, driving up, down, left and right over the island will eventually deplete any petrol tank, and since we would drive past the local petrol station along the way to the Little House B&B, we might as well stop there. Islay being Islay though, and the day being Sunday, the petrol station was closed. There we were. City folk, used to around the clock petrol service. 

Arriving at our semi-studio for the rest of our time on Islay, having passed the new Port Ellen distillery buildings with its shiny stills and complex pipe-works, we create ourselves a simple pasta menu and enjoy it with the complimentary glass of prosecco we found in the fridge of the B&B, before opening the patio doors to the small private garden, sit down, and enjoy the excellent view.

With our beverage of choice in hand, we listen to a recital brought to us by a flock of sheep and their newborn lambs, accompanied by geese bathing in the Cornabus burn, and, closer by, a red robin attracting a mate – rather late this time in April. Listening to this concerto, leaving the TV off and reading one of the books from the growing library in the back of our little car, the sky above Islay creates a spectacle of different shades of yellow, orange and reds, becoming purple and lavender before slowly shifting into many hues of blue; from turquoise to azure, to cobalt to prussian. No Aurora Borealis needed here, the setting sun and fluffy Islay clouds were creating an extravagant scene in the skies to remember. Chilly though, it is still Islay. The last hour or so we may have enjoyed the views from inside the room.

After a very good night’s rest, having enjoyed our punctually provided picnic basket breakfast at our B&B and a quick stop at the Port Ellen filling station to satisfy thirsty Cliopetra, we drove back to our turquoise friends for the long overdue re-tour at our favourite distillery, Bruichladdich.

We can tell you all the details about the distillery, about them being still mostly in production with the original Victorian equipment, their different types of spirits, the experimental past, or the complete lack of modern automation. The best thing to do however, is to travel to the distillery and experience it for yourself. The standard tour is rounded up by a tasting of three whiskies and as many gins, some of which we took home. For homework and study purposes, obviously…

Cheers,

Thomas & Ansgar